Sunday, February 21, 2010

Toledo, Spain

After a long Friday night of experiencing the night life of Madrid, getting to bed at 5am, I awoke at 9am and announced I was going to Toledo for the day. My hostmom was very impressed and delighted that I was able to wake at 9, let alone go and spend an entire day walking around. The previous night there were 9 confirmations from fellow students that were attending. That day only four of us went ... Toledo is only for the strong.


Once again we took the amazing high speed rail system and quickly arrived at the breathtaking train station. The architecture was very Moor, or was it Moop? We decide to be a little adventurous and walk to the center of town. Of course I quickly cite my 4 years of service to the boy scouts and appoint myself navigator. I had failed to mention that these 4 years were all in elementary school and I never got my compass and general orientation badge. Surprisingly I managed to lead us in the exact opposite direction of the center, uphill nonetheless. We eventually found our way.


Toledo seems to be the definition of a Medieval city. Tiny, winding roads, old wall surrounding most of it and ancient buildings. It was amazing that a car could even fit between on the buildings and were surprised several times that cars we even allowed on certain streets. I was impressed with the sheer confidence the drivers had in these narrow pathways, though there were some very amusing three & four point turns.

A friend had recommended getting a map of the city, unfortunately we did not heed his advice. Most of the day was spent wandering around lost. Luckily this, for me, is the most enjoyable way to see a new, unfamiliar place and I always find interesting things that catch my eye.

One of things Toledo is famous for, like most medieval cities, is its Cathedral. We unfortunately didn't get the best view of it, and were deterred from entering by a 8 euro admission fee. This proved to be a mistake and I will have to return to see it.


Soon our stomachs began to voice their protest and we found a somewhat shotty, though cheap restaurant for lunch. We got what we paid for. The menu was actually three menus, a handwritten one of the typical Spanish cuisine found everywhere, and the other two were glossy, mass produced menus of Italian and Mexican food. I quickly convinced myself that the Italian and Mexican food just came in frozen crates with menus inside. I imagined that if I ordered a burrito and I would hear a microwave come on, with a ding five minutes later and he would come out with the food on a microwave plate. I just ordered off the handwritten menu. The food was ok and service was terrible. Literally the worst service I have ever had, he ignored us for 20 minutes and brought the bread out during dessert. I guess thats what happens when tipping is not customary.

One female member of our group, who will remain nameless, was very adamant about visiting the torture museum in the city. Literally she talked about going to see it from the second we got to the train station in Madrid. The museum took a while to find but when did it was pretty ... interesting.

It wasn't really so much a museum, as it was two floors of a building that I think used to house an art gallery. Surprisingly they had English versions of the placards accompanying the displays and the translations were not comical, much to my disappointment. The devices on display, on the most part, were crude reproductions of the devices they used during the Spanish Inquisition. When I say crude, I mean it looks like a middle school made them with his dad in their garage for his schools Medieval Fair. It made Medieval Times look like the real thing. The Iron Maiden was foam with metallic paint, it didn't even close.

The devices, at least conceptually, were real and very disturbing. It was strange to think about what kind of people were in charge of coming up with these devices. Equally disturbing was the fact that the people that were sentencing poor souls to these devices were 'respected' and high up members of society. Needless to say I was not interested in lingering.


One thing that caught my attention in the museum was the presence of a sort of medieval waterboard. I, in jest and poor taste, remarked that it should be in the Advanced Integration Techniques Museum down the street.

One thing that was very interesting was the description of the judicial process, or lack there of, of the time. Apparently once person or group was the judge, jury and prosecutor. You were not allowed to know the charges leveed against you nor was your 'lawyer' allowed to ask questions. Also during the trial allow of your families belongs were cataloged and held by the state. Often times they apparently auctioned off your things at discount rates to pay for your trial, which took years. If you were fortunate enough to be determined innocent, which almost never happened, you were left with nothing.


Afterwards we found the main square which was beautiful, but, much to my dismay, contained a McDonald's. No wonder Europeans hate us. Also one of the group members bought us marzipan, which she had been raving about like it was the best thing since sliced bread. Its some sort of sugary treat, apparently what she bought was not it. It was terrible, no one finished their pieces and she threw the rest away.

The rest of the day was spent exploring the city some more and taking pictures. Unfortunately my camera ran out of battery but my generous fellow students have allowed me to have theirs.

If you ever visit Toledo, see the Cathedral and bring a map.


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